I looked more into Morocco as I planned my trip. I learned just how diverse the country is. This diversity stems from the countries geographical location, as well as its history. Morocco has been home to many ancient civilizations and has been moulded and formed through conflict. Throughout its history, Morocco had been conquered by Islam and Rome, colonized by France and been home to a native Berber population. Influences from all these sources can still be seen today. In addition to this Morocco lies in northwest Africa, bordering on Algeria and Western Sahara, a disputed territory suffering from ongoing war. Algeria is also a country with many issues, including war and famine. After hearing this, I thought that these issues would be seen Morocco as well. However, that was not the case, making my trip far more enjoyable as I saw that not only I was happy, but the people surrounding me. This is was the first of my many surprises I would come to experience with the country.
The trip did not start off well. And not because I missed the plane, or because I forgot to pack my underwear, but because I was dreading the arrival. To be completely honest, I didn't want to leave my cosy apartment in Vienna and get on a plane at 7 in the morning to go into what I thought was an unstable country riddled with crime. This was my mentality for the first couple of days, but I eventually brushed off my prejudice and saw the country for what it really is: a beautiful country with breathtaking landmarks and culture a simple tourist like me could not hope to fully see within 10 days.
The second day in Marrakesh was when the trip really started to ramp up. I had a delicious breakfast composed of juice, fruit, Turkish bread and honey. I checked out and decided to finally follow some itineraries which the owner had given me. I visited Ben Youseff Madrasa first. A madrasa is essentially an Islamic school, and the Ben Youssef Madrasa is amongst the most historically important in the world, being the biggest in North Africa for four centuries. It was underwhelming since only the main courtyard and a couple of other rooms are open to the public. Therefore I was in and out in about 20 minutes. I continued towards Jardin Majorelle, which are gardens just outside the medina. These were absolutely stunning, leaving me in awe for the duration of my stay. The gardens surround a small riad, completely enveloping it. The mix of typical architecture and, for me at least, exotic plants and cacti made for a beautiful and unique experience. The area is also quite large since it is located outside of the medina. This means that one can easily lose an hour or even longer admiring or simply going for a relaxing walk in the gardens. In quite a drastic contrast, I then went to the city's souk, or market, once again. I grabbed lunch and continued to Musee de Mouassine, a relatively small museum showcasing local artwork and craftsmanship. The museum is located in a typical 16th-century house. This was another experience which I enjoyed. The artwork showcased was well selected and presented, if a bit limited. I did not spend much time in the museum and soon launched myself back onto the busy streets. A curious building piqued my interest on my way back to Jemaa al Fna. I went to the buildings gates only to find out that I was not allowed to enter. As it turns out, that building was the Koutoubia Mosque, the city's most important religious facility. This showed, as the beautiful building, laid in bricks of sandstone, imposingly yet gracefully stood out from the surrounding area. It was already 15:00, meaning that I needed to start making my way to Ouarzazate, and the Valley of Roses.
The next day was quite slow. I got a local tour guide and he showed me through the rose fields and the Berber village. I wandered through fields, scaled up battered paths and followed dusty roads. Eventually, the guide lead me past the village, over a hill and through a canyon, bringing me to a marvellous natural waterfall. We took a small break to eat and refresh ourselves. I finished my sandwich and splashed some cold water on my face. We then trekked back following the stream, leading us back to where we started. I arrived back at the Kasbah smelling like perfume and with a sun-kissed, face. At least that's what I would have liked to have thought. In reality I probably smelled like mud and looked like a freshly picked tomato.
I packed my stuff and headed out to Merzouga, where I would see the desert for the first time in my life.
Marrakesh
My first stop was Marrakesh, a former imperial city dating back to the Berber empire. The influences of its past can still be felt in the city today, as most of the people you will see are a part of the nearly 20 million strong Berber population of the country. This includes the owners of the riad which I stayed at. A riad is a traditional Moroccan house, characterised by an open courtyard in the centre of the building. I immediately noted this characteristic as I entered through the front door of Dar Daoud, the riad which I stayed at. Besides the rays of sunlight glistening on the water in the courtyard, I also noticed the smell of spices and scented candles which, as I would come to find out, is a common theme in all places which I visited. The owner of the riad swiftly greeted me, interrupting my slight daze. The warm-hearted welcome lifted my mood, so I reciprocated. After checking in he lead me to my room. It was modest but well-furnished. I dropped off my stuff and went down to the reception. As he saw me walking out the owner stopped me. He gave me a map and marked worthwhile itineraries while explaining how to get to the medina, also known as the city centre. The walk to the medina was only about 5 minutes, and before I even knew it I was making my way through a long maze of markets, surrounded by conversation, murmurs and the occasional shout. As I entered Djemaa El Fna, the city square, I was taken aback. It was a massive expanse, interrupted by numerous markets and counters. I made my way towards the middle of the square, encountering snake charmers, henna artists, fruit vendors, other tourists and simple people going through their day. It was about midday and the city was bustling. I decided to spend the rest of the day exploring the markets with no set goal. The markets of Marrakesh are a very worthwhile destination for anyone with plans for shopping. Not only can you find traditional carpentry, pottery and woodwork, but also great food stands. All at a very low price. I lost myself in all the shopping, and eventually returned to the riad at 9:00.The second day in Marrakesh was when the trip really started to ramp up. I had a delicious breakfast composed of juice, fruit, Turkish bread and honey. I checked out and decided to finally follow some itineraries which the owner had given me. I visited Ben Youseff Madrasa first. A madrasa is essentially an Islamic school, and the Ben Youssef Madrasa is amongst the most historically important in the world, being the biggest in North Africa for four centuries. It was underwhelming since only the main courtyard and a couple of other rooms are open to the public. Therefore I was in and out in about 20 minutes. I continued towards Jardin Majorelle, which are gardens just outside the medina. These were absolutely stunning, leaving me in awe for the duration of my stay. The gardens surround a small riad, completely enveloping it. The mix of typical architecture and, for me at least, exotic plants and cacti made for a beautiful and unique experience. The area is also quite large since it is located outside of the medina. This means that one can easily lose an hour or even longer admiring or simply going for a relaxing walk in the gardens. In quite a drastic contrast, I then went to the city's souk, or market, once again. I grabbed lunch and continued to Musee de Mouassine, a relatively small museum showcasing local artwork and craftsmanship. The museum is located in a typical 16th-century house. This was another experience which I enjoyed. The artwork showcased was well selected and presented, if a bit limited. I did not spend much time in the museum and soon launched myself back onto the busy streets. A curious building piqued my interest on my way back to Jemaa al Fna. I went to the buildings gates only to find out that I was not allowed to enter. As it turns out, that building was the Koutoubia Mosque, the city's most important religious facility. This showed, as the beautiful building, laid in bricks of sandstone, imposingly yet gracefully stood out from the surrounding area. It was already 15:00, meaning that I needed to start making my way to Ouarzazate, and the Valley of Roses.
Ouarzazate and the Valley of Roses
I arrived at the Valley of Roses at around 8pm, after a 5-hour drive. It was already dark, and the wind was starting to pick up. The breeze was pungent, and although I was freezing my toes off, I was in a good mood; I had made it to my second destination. I looked at the sky and noticed what seemed like billions of stars. I don't exactly know why, but this made my arrival that much sweeter. The Valley of Roses is about 150km east of Ouarzazate, the gateway to the desert. I stayed at El Kelaa des Mgouna. Although the town is by no means small, it was pitch black; everyone had gone to bed. El Kelaa is in the middle of the Atlas mountains, yet still close to the desert at Merzouga, where I would travel the day after. I found my Kasbah, checked in, went to my room and fell asleep without even changing. I was tired.The next day was quite slow. I got a local tour guide and he showed me through the rose fields and the Berber village. I wandered through fields, scaled up battered paths and followed dusty roads. Eventually, the guide lead me past the village, over a hill and through a canyon, bringing me to a marvellous natural waterfall. We took a small break to eat and refresh ourselves. I finished my sandwich and splashed some cold water on my face. We then trekked back following the stream, leading us back to where we started. I arrived back at the Kasbah smelling like perfume and with a sun-kissed, face. At least that's what I would have liked to have thought. In reality I probably smelled like mud and looked like a freshly picked tomato.
I packed my stuff and headed out to Merzouga, where I would see the desert for the first time in my life.
Merzouga
Merzouga was probably amongst my favourite places in Morocco. It is a town right at the border between massive expanses of sand dunes and a neverending plain of cracked soil. I arrived fairly early and therefore had to wait. I had reserved a camel ride and a night in a camp in the middle of the dunes. The trip only goes twice a day, and I had time until my appointment. I sat down in a café and ordered some orange juice and some Turkish bread. I finished up quickly, set a timer, and dozed off for an hour. As I woke up, the previous group was arriving, and the new guide was preparing the camels.
When the guide called everyone up, I was the first in line, itching to get on the camel. It took a while, but eventually everyone got on. The camel ride was about an hour long, and it lead to a camp at the base of three massive dunes. The guide told us to be at dinner at 7:45, so I went to my tent. I put down my stuff and went back out. I saw a snowboard and immediately had an idea. I took the snowboard and painstakingly walked up the tallest dune. I then strapped my Vans to the board and slid down without a second thought. As it turns out, that might have been a mistake. As I basically rolled down the entire dune and got sand in every crack and crevice of my clothing. By the time I went up, back down and had changed it was time for dinner. I changed and got to the lunch room. The food was very good, and they served tajine, the national dish of the country. I went to bed and slept surprisingly well in the tent.
The morning after we ate breakfast quickly. I went back up to the tallest dune and observed the sunrise. This was a sight which I will likely never see again and was irreplaceable. The sun arose from the direction of Merzouga, which was hidden behind mighty mounds of sand. I could see vast expanses of the desert under a sunrise which warmed the earth in a matter of minutes. This was a fitting goodbye to perhaps one of the most enjoyable one-day trips of my life. I eventually returned to Merzouga and said my final thanks to the guide as I returned from where I came.
The Trip
My trip to Morocco surpassed all expectations. Not only was the food good, but the people and the atmosphere as well. I had some of fondest memories while travelling in these 10 days and I thoroughly recommend the trip to anyone looking to experience North Africa.
